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Post by Deleted on Feb 27, 2021 15:18:06 GMT -5
Plate all ready to go Wiring up to solar panels today Shalom
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Post by Deleted on Feb 28, 2021 16:59:31 GMT -5
First array is running CLose up on fuses Ammeters to be hooked up later First MPPT running Open voltage coming in is 75 VDC, 5 amps Closed to MPTT voltage drops to 40VDC. Not sure of current coming in as yet. Shalom
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Post by Deleted on Feb 28, 2021 19:56:33 GMT -5
COmputer fans used to extract humidity and H2 gas These are 12 V in series, times two makes a 24 v fan running off 27 V charging. View from outside looking down wall hole. Nice breeze, should remove air inside 4m by 2.8 m room in 30 minutes.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 7, 2021 21:28:24 GMT -5
The first inverter is up and running. Had trouble with made in iIndian, my inverter came with two active wires, rather than one, so after some readings the internal jumper leads were changed. Problem solved. I now have a RCD and a CB for my first wire circuit, limiting circuit to 4 amps or 930 Watt. Running a water pressure pump, draws 18Amps from the Inverter. The solar panels show float, but within 10 minutes began charging the batteries with 6 and 7 amps (I have only two MPPT's hooked up so far) I think in theory the two MPTT's are 30 amp, and should charge up to 25 amps, but never seen this amount of charging as yet. Shalom
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Post by Deleted on Mar 8, 2021 12:53:55 GMT -5
The bank is currently running the water pump, rated at 480Watts, using 18 Amps when running, has been running it's first day. By 7pm, the bank was 25V or 60% full. That is quite a drop in storage. Can't wait for the early morning report.
Shalom
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Post by Dillon on Mar 9, 2021 12:46:46 GMT -5
Looks like you have a big science project going on there. Evidently you like to be inventive. Colorado is filled with self-reliant DYI builders and there are many examples of how some guys do it so well and others do it clunky. The ART of living requires no compromise in life style if done well. You have built into your impressive block house an energy demand. Those venting fans require energy. At altitude we do not experience the same thermal flow as flatlanders. People at sea level have more air pressure which helps push air around. Back east in the flat lands the roof vents for plumbing is only 1.5 inch. Here in BV all vents are 3 inch or larger so that more air will flow. Here all batteries are kept in a vented box and that vent requires not a fan, but height. I have built two solar chimneys. The first was to small and too expensive and didn’t work like I hoped. The one I have now woks just like air conditioner for my home. It is just made of plywood. 24” wide x 18” deep and 6’ taller than the house. The sides and back is lined with tin foil from the kitchen as its reflecting surface and the sunward face is thin clear plastic. Day or night it syphons. When the sun is up is works well enough to cool my home. I just open and close the mouth to regulate. I thought Australia was sunny and hot. Wouldn’t that be perfect for using the sun to passively vent your block house? Zero energy requirements and something that can never break down. Just an idea. Many buildings in Colorado use passive venting.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 9, 2021 13:10:06 GMT -5
Wow Dillion, never heard of this simple idea? Seems great.
In where we live the humidity is what kills us, its 33 degrees Celsius and over 66 % humidity. I would imagine dragging in the cool air outside also drags the moisture in the air with it?
We had the same problem in Papua New Guinea, how to make computer components survive the awful humidity. With clothes in the wardrobe, we placed 60W light bulbs on the bottom of the robes, and heated the air inside, making hot drier air. For a computer room, added heat is not a good idea, so we have to air conditioner the room, as air conditioner are great for removing moisture from the air.
But what you have designed is fantastic. Thanks for the sharing. God bless you. Shalom
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Post by Dave on Mar 9, 2021 18:11:23 GMT -5
Thanks D – I also have a solar syphon idea for myself I have 180’ of 12”dia flexible pipe/culvert in 20’ sections It was used to drain water in a mine once upon a time - all of it is perforated I live in clay – I figure if I can wrap the pipe sticking out of the ground to a depth of 4’ or so I would not have a water issue here Years ago I was at a Do It Yourself home in New Mexico This guy had gone to many junkyards and collected windows and windshields Down the 60’ drop behind his house he had a 10” metal heat duct stinging down the slope all covered in in an eclectic collection of glass i.e – it was God ugly But the warm air that syphoned came out heated most of his home most of the year I was planning to do my pipe idea last year – but time passes Now I have been reading of mildew and mold issues and am hesitating even more But all this has to do with my wanting to be underground for that 52 F Guys who do this – simple use these thermal syphons to heat their home in winter Go away all winter and regardless of the weather their home = 52 F 24/7 But above ground – what could go wrong – the hotter the air inside the chimney the greater of flow upwards – and drawing in at the bottom 24/7 energy free This isn’t really a new idea – many 19th century American home were built with a thermal syphon As a kid – I always thought they were for fighting Indians
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Post by Deleted on Mar 10, 2021 12:36:38 GMT -5
Not sure if this thermal idea works for removing humidity though, the cooler the air the less water it carries, so might work? I will have to try the idea? What would be nice if I dug a well down my bore, and dragged the air out of the well into my house.
AN update on my solar panels, I have just learned how to test each one for current flow. My multimeter has a ammeter switch? It seems my 8 solar panels so far have piddly squat current coming out of them. I am only getting 6 and 7 amps, when I need for bulk and adsorb to be around 60 amps. David, from Iron Core says I cannot keep doing this or the battery gets memory and I spoil the 500 amp hr capacity. So I plan to really flatten the battery down to 20 volts, and build properly this time a MPTT system that delivers 60 amps. I will need to purchase some new solar panels too.
But as the car ad says "but hey, I'm still feeling it", not discouraged at all, just haven't learned all the experience one needs to learn. Theory is never the same as practice. Using a 36 V 5A solar panel is now true. One should measure it's actual performance first, like 32 Volts and 3.5 amps, at my house on a certain day. This gives me a better design to work with, not the theoretical.
SHalom everyone
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Post by Dave on Mar 10, 2021 16:16:49 GMT -5
Not sure if this thermal idea works for removing humidity though, the cooler the air the less water it carries, so might work? I will have to try the idea? EXACTLY – and the guys here that have done this end up with musty smelling air after a few years EVEN if it was a smoothed walled pipe with a sump pump at one end for water removal – how do you manage the musty smell? The guy that had the car window heated pipe – has no issues – but he was all above ground and the pie was too hot for mold and bacteria
What would be nice if I dug a well down my bore, and dragged the air out of the well into my house. Wouldn’t that add humidity?
AN update on my solar panels, I have just learned how to test each one for current flow. My multimeter has a ammeter switch? It seems my 8 solar panels so far have piddly squat current coming out of them. I am only getting 6 and 7 amps, when I need for bulk and adsorb to be around 60 amps. David, from Iron Core says I cannot keep doing this or the battery gets memory and I spoil the 500 amp hr capacity. So I plan to really flatten the battery down to 20 volts, and build properly this time a MPTT system that delivers 60 amps. I will need to purchase some new solar panels too.
OK – I think I tried to tell you this before I thought you didn’t understand charge rate And yes – you can train your new batteries to be weak – maybe this is why your never last Not a judgment – we have all wasted money on our projects
Charge rate must = usage rate + charge rate If you are charging at 40amp – but are using 40amp – you are not charging anything
Battery memory If you hold the battery at full charge forever – when you need it – it will underperform If you drain a battery dead – and let it sit for any time – it will never fully charge again WHY – because at these steady states the electrolytes start to become covalently bonded in compounds A deep cycle battery is made to release and the reabsorb – keep those electrolytes moving back and forth
The newer the technology the more abuse the battery can take You went backwards in technology to a manual battery style THEY ARE GREAT BATTERIES – I would love them But they behave more like older car batteries than a new cell phone battery YOU NEED TO TREAT THEM NICE - if you want them to last
Solar Panels We have never spoke of them – but there are more than one type Monos and plolys here – you do not mix and match them All the monos should be together and polys together Wash the crap out of them Replace any bad /underperforming panel in a series But as the car ad says "but hey, I'm still feeling it", not discouraged at all, just haven't learned all the experience one needs to learn. Theory is never the same as practice. Using a 36 V 5A solar panel is now true. One should measure it's actual performance first, like 32 Volts and 3.5 amps, at my house on a certain day. This gives me a better design to work with, not the theoretical.
If you are going to spend more money You should really look at some passive water pumping No one here waters their livestock like you intend to water your trees Everyone here has a Solar Panel at each well – and a 24/7 passing solar pump always delivering
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2021 3:03:49 GMT -5
"Everyone here has a Solar Panel at each well – and a 24/7 passing solar pump always delivering"
Never heard of that?
You mean you get usable water flow from water 25m under ground to flow above ground just using passive solar? How does this work?
Shalom
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Post by Dave on Mar 11, 2021 10:18:41 GMT -5
www.amazon.com/ECO-WORTHY-Deep-Well-Water-System/dp/B073XGP6SB200W Stainless Steel Pump Kit - $359.88Brand - ECO-WORTHY Material - Stainless Steel Style - English Power Source - Solar-Powered Maximum Flow Rate -3.2 Gallons Per Minute Maximum Lifting Height - 230 Feet thesolarstore.com/submersible-pumps-c-53_62.htmlSubmersible Solar Well PumpsIf you are pumping from a well, we have solar pumps that can deliver from 1 gallon per minute to over 75 gpm. The smallest pumps, the low-power diaphragm pumps from Aquatec, SHURflo and SunPumps, operate from two 50- to 100-watt solar modules, depending on the head (vertical distance) they are pumping. They can pump 500 to 1000 gallons per day and lift water 200 feet. These pumps require service every 2 to 4 years. ------- D -In the Rocky Mountains – wells of 200 feet or more is not uncommon Flatlanders drill down to a to a water table – a layer of semi-permeable sand or stone The wells here are drilled into rock – hoping to hit a crack or two in the rock that allows water to seep 1 gal a minute wells are normal here – mine in the last house was 164’ at 3 gal a min Ranchers here – have wells and water tanks for their livestock out in the middle of nowhere – far from utility service – just a solar panel and a tank
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2021 12:54:06 GMT -5
I see, our term for well is a bore. I have two working bores on two different streams. One is a windmill, the other electric bore pump, that removes 7 litres per minute/ at 25 metres head.
I really need a head tank, to remove extra power cost to my battery bank. The 300 w 240 bore pump could easily lift 25m head or 30m head for the same flow rate roughly. So a head tank would save 300w of power.
Expensive making a head tank capable of holding 8 tonne of water.
Nice picture Dave.
SHalom
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Post by Deleted on Mar 16, 2021 21:41:46 GMT -5
Removed all my solar panels and replaced them with new ones On left 370W, 4 in total, 2 in series 2 in parallel. On right are Zeus 45 V 2.8 amp, all 6 in parallel. Notice I now get 60 amps of charging for my batteries, only on a sunny day. 29 amps from Trina Solar 370 x 4 = 1480 watts 29 amps from Zeus Apolloa 200 x 6 = 1200 watts Need more, have a third 30 amp MPTT box, and some more panels, these are the older ones 200Watt and 12 of these , 2400 watts in theory, but not in practice, so will wire 6 parallels with 2 in series, so 75 Volts at 2 amps, is 12 amps @ 75 volts, might get 15 to 20 amps of charging from the older panels?? A question for you Dave, Hooked up USA made 4 amp double pole circuit breaker, and it did NOT trip, when the 930 Watt inverter tried running the 500 watt water pump and the 600 bore pump, so for about 15 seconds the load went to 1,100 watts, but the CB did NOT trip? Why? Is this because USA is 60 Hz and Australia is 50 Hz, the voltages are more the same, 240 V for Australia verses 230 V for the USA? SO much for protecting the Inverters? Shalom
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Post by Dave on Mar 17, 2021 8:51:39 GMT -5
A question for you Dave, Hooked up USA made 4 amp double pole circuit breaker, and it did NOT trip, when the 930 Watt inverter tried running the 500 watt water pump and the 600 bore pump, so for about 15 seconds the load went to 1,100 watts, but the CB did NOT trip? Why?
(wiki) – and this is very common - the breaker controlling a circuit should be 125 percent of the continuous load (maximum current expected to last for three hours or more) and 100 percent of the non-continuous load
Therefore a 240v 4 amps circuit breaker should carry - 240x4=960 watts indefinitely And it should carry 125% of its capacity = 1200 for up to 3hrs
For shorter bursts of power, such as that needed to start up, surge demand (wiki) there is no one standard answer – each breaker says something different depending upon application
Many are multi-step breakers – Breakers ate rated for 80% demand (80 amp demand = 100 amp breaker) Breakers will carry 100% indefinitely Breakers will carry 125% for a while Then there is the 90 second rule above 125% to XXX% it takes 90 seconds to tripe the breaker This is built in for – surge demand – pulling the trigger on a skill saw – starting a washing machine Then there is that XXX% at which immediate failure occurs - each breaker different depending upon application
Is this because USA is 60 Hz and Australia is 50 Hz, the voltages are more the same, 240 V for Australia verses 230 V for the USA? SO much for protecting the Inverters?
Actually – I am not sure what America is – commonly some say 120 – and some say 110 Back in Indiana 90 miles east of Chicago – I had 117v coming into my house I was also downstream from a factory and at time – the lights would dim a moment Here in rural Colorado – some folk only have 90v incoming This is really hard on large wattage appliances – they must draw more amperage and run hot
It’s all about proper sizing
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